Saturday, January 19, 2008

Buying Dinner at Late Night Taco Stands

Buying Dinner at Late Night Taco Stands

and other information your study abroad handbook won’t tell you about Oaxaca, Mexico

Study abroad can be a time of incredible personal growth and development, only if the traveler is willing to push their personal boundaries and be open to uncertainty. Before I started to travel much, I always followed the travel advice like, ‘don’t stay out too late, don’t go anywhere alone, don’t drink the water, and don’t accept drinks from strangers.’ I used to listen to all this advice, until I realized my travels lacked cultural engagement due to the boundaries these restrictions created. If one travels in fear, they may as well stay at home. I won’t deny that I have never been ripped off, had money stolen, or been harassed by police abroad, I don’t have a euphoric idea of travel. However, culturally engaged travel requires an adventurous nature and willingness to destroy preconceived notions. One must use their best judgment while abroad, but I have never been permanently injured by expanding my mind. The culturally informed student traveler seeks challenging experiences to broaden their horizons.

I had the chance to develop my own cultural intelligence in Oaxaca, México. I attended language classes at the Facultad de Idiomas and participated in a volunteer teaching program through the Instituto Welte. The classes and language emersion helped me improve my Spanish skills; while teaching in the small town of San José del Mogote helped me understand the effects of emigration and globalization within rural communities. Living with my incredibly supportive host family helped me fall in love with the Oaxaqueño lifestyle even more. During my time in Oaxaca, I was continually forced to question my own beliefs, and because this, became more centered and confident. I was able to slow down and think about important aspects of life. My time in Oaxaca also inspired a thirst for more travel experience. The only part I would have changed about my experience abroad is that I wish I could have stayed for two semesters instead of one.

Oaxaca is a vibrant and beautiful city full of opportunities for language and cultural emersion. Oaxaca is a living textbook of art, political engagement, history, architecture, indigenous cultures, archaeology, music, and culinary arts. For an engaged student of the global community, Oaxaca is the optimal choice for study abroad. There are spectacular attractions that everyone must see like the Zócalo, Monte Alban, and the Santo Domingo Cathedral. The clubs and nightlife are phenomenal. These aspects of the Oaxaca need no further embellishment, as they become ingrained in one’s consciousness just by visiting this colonial city. However, to really understand the spirit of Oaxaca, students must let go of their tourist roots to experience everything the life in Oaxaca has to offer.

The markets of Oaxaca are a great way to understand the workings of the city, and they are sprinkled about the center of town and throughout the neighborhoods. Mountains of fresh fruits and vegetables cascade in front of venders, bar stools adorn fresh juice stands, quesillo (cheese), tortillas, salted chapulines (roasted grasshoppers), and beautiful handicrafts abound. The markets in Oaxaca facilitate conversation, stimulate the local economy, and give great insight into the lifestyle there. Going to the market with my host mom helped me participate in family activities while learning about the origin of the food I was eating.

In addition to raw goods, many of the markets have venders with prepared foods. These venders and other small business have some of the best food in the city. I think for American students, one of the hardest preconceptions to overcome while abroad is their fear of the supposed “germs” in the water, food, and etcetera. One of my favorite culinary delights of Oaxaca is the late night tacos stands that set up for dinner and beyond. One can find these stands and small restaurants all over the city. Simply ask for three or four tacos of carne de pastor (spiced pork) or pollo (chicken) with onions, cilantro, and a spicy or mild salsa to accompany a fresh corn tortilla, and enjoy. These small businesses are a great way to engage in conversation, and the food is always spectacular. Some travel sources may advise against eating “street food,” but I would strongly encourage any traveler to try some late night tacos and be enchanted by this small part of the Oaxaqueño life.

There are lots of interesting culturally significant interests within thirty minutes of the city as well. There is of course, the famous Monte Alban, the ancient Zapotec city built atop a mountain. Monte Alban is a must see, but there are lots of other smaller, less traveled archeological sites close to the city. One such site is Mitla. The grandiosity of Monte Alban pales in comparison to the detailed stone artwork at Mitla. Another small Zapotec agrological site is Yagul. I was fortunate enough to experience Yagul when no other visitors were there, and its desolate nature captured my heart and imagination. One only has to climb the mountain path next to the site to take advantage of a truly awe inspiring view of the ruins and the desert landscape.

Any of the small towns outside of the city are also points of interest for the culturally engaged traveler. The fiestas patrias (patron saint’s festivals) of the small communities, if respectfully observed, capture interesting aspects of the religion and culture. Accompanied by live music and fireworks, Calendas (processions) including town officials and ornately adorned dancers fill the streets. Some comminutes throw carnival style festivals or have jaripeos (rodeos). I was fortunate enough to work with municipal organizers and participate in some of these celebrations through the Instituto Welte. Teaching in the community of San José del Mogote and participation in community activities offered a different perspective of Mexican cultural than the city. In addition, the small towns exemplify the sentiments of a community and agro-based lifestyle, which is increasingly threatened by a global market.

Students seeking the opportunity to develop their cultural competency need look no farther than Oaxaca. There is liberation in letting down ones guard and simply living in another culture and Oaxaca is the perfect place for students to find that personal liberation and growth.

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