Anti-Americanism Abroad

Anti-Americanism Abroad:

A call for students to brush up on their history lessons*

On a tranquil weeknight in Oaxaca, I enjoyed the smells and sounds of the city while sipping on a drink in a very hip, very dark bar. Basking in the ambiance of the city, couples and groups of teenagers strolled through the open air plaza. Over the sounds of conversation and clinking of glasses, I listened closely to the lyrics of the club music: “Señor Presidente George Bush: ¡Cuidado! Look, the eagle is watching, high in sky, it’s watching everything.” With a funky electric beat, the popular music artist Manu Chau is known for using music for political expression. I am glad that the global popular culture is engaged in conversation about American foreign policy, but I wish more U.S. citizens participated in the global exchange of these ideas.

The United States has a long history of military intervention and commercial exploitation in many Latin American nations. Military forces, corporate entitlement, border control, resource conflicts, and the overall reputation for aggressive engagement worldwide, paints a negative picture of the United States and its citizens. Unfortunately, individual travelers wishing to explore other lifestyles and cultures are often inhibited by the reputation which precedes them. First impressions are considered instead of individual beliefs.

I find myself reflecting on what it means to be an American traveling abroad, considering the negative opinions many have about the United States foreign relations. While abroad, I have frequently felt that the negative image associated with my nationality precedes my individual identity as a woman, traveler, student, or otherwise. I resent that I am stereotyped based on my government’s imperialistic and unethical foreign practices. I am not alone when I say that not all Americans support the Bush administration’s doctrine. For students abroad, the only way to be culturally competent and surpass the negative prejudices is to not only know the political situation of his or her host country, but to also know how the United States effects the economic and political situation in that region. Active dialog is essential for creating a peaceful global community.

In the case of Latin America, many reasons contribute to the development of anti-Americanism. For example, the Monroe Doctrine served to protect independent nations in Latin America, instead the United States used the military to protect commercial ventures in these nations. Under the doctrine, Argentina was occupied in 1833 and 1852, Perú in 1835, Nicaragua in 1853, 1857 and 1899, Uruguay in 1855 and 1858, Panama in 1856 and 1901, and Honduras in 1905. Many of these interventions were to protect American capital investment in these countries. Hispanic literature reveals the reaction to these occupations. In Ruben Dario’s poem, “A Roosevelt,” he expresses the resentment surrounding the 1904 military intervention and annexation of the Panama Canal.

Social uprisings and grassroots movements, especially those which threaten investments, continue to be targets of aggressive foreign policy. For these reasons, the United States military intervened in Cuba in 1917, Nicaragua in 1926 and 1928, Guatemala in 1920 and again in 1922 to protect the interests of the United Fruit Company. The military intervention in Guatemala is also denounced in Hispanic literature. Pablo Neruda’s “La United Fruit Co.” describes the unjust treatment and victimization of landowners and workers at the hands of the American company.

This pattern continues today, there is a plethora of military intervention to protect political and economic interests abroad. The modern financial aid policy for Latin American countries supports paramilitaries, causing blood shed aboard while keeping the hands of American politicians clean. The United States military intervened in Bolivia in 1966 and 1971, El Salvador in 1966 and 1980, Uruguay in 1971, Nicaragua in 1982, Guatemala in1982, and Panama in 1988 and 1989. Much of the modern intervention is indirect; the United States funds foreign fighters without sending their own troops. The best example of this is the war on drugs in Columbia. The funding for Plan Columbia -the war to stop drug production- actually secures oil pipelines in the most violent regions of the country. In 2006 the United States spent over 600 million dollars aiding Columbian police and 82 million to the military. The United States is securing its economic interest, not solving a drug problem (Zarate-Laun). Another good example of this is the School of the Americas. Paradoxically, in order to maintain peace in Latin American countries, the United States military trains foreign combatants at Fort Benning, Georgia. Social revolutionaries are generally the target these U.S. trained combatants (School of the Americas Watch). In the past and present, there is a myriad of examples of the United States protecting its economic interest through military intervention.

In 2005, the Pew Global Attitudes project took several polls and concluded, “anti-Americanism is deeper and broader now than any other time in modern history” (McPherson, 23). Students planning to study abroad in should consider this as they develop their own understanding of foreign relations. With the ad-nauseam discussion about the war in Iraq and the price of oil in the media, there is little time spent analyzing the interconnected web of cooperate and military interests worldwide. Do not go abroad unaware of these events and others that similarly would contribute to creating an imperial image of the United States, and consequently a negative image of its citizens.

A student can not truly engage in cultural emersion and understanding without first understanding how their own country has played a role in affecting other nations. Considering lessons from history and literature, interpreting current events, and reflecting on my own expiries, it is clear that there is justification in resentment towards the American foreign policy. Doing more research will only broaden the horizons of students. Becoming well versed in issues of global relations helps students to understand the social, economic, and cultural situations abroad, while building strong opinions and communication skills. Understating the history of oppression is essential to changing it. While Bush may be seen as a gringo malo, engaged students have the opportunity to be seen as representatives of a politically aware generation of true global citizens.

* All dates in this article are taken from Lasn, Kalle

Sources:

Frontline World. “Colombia: The Pipeline War.” http://www.pbs.org/frontlineworld/

stories/colombia/thestory.html. Accessed 20 October, 2007

McPherson, Alan, ed. Anti-Americanism in Latin America and the Caribbean. New York:

Berghahn Books, 2006.

Lasn, Kalle, ed. “Adbusters Journal of the Mental Enviornment: Hope and Memory” vol. 12

no. 3, May-June 2004.

School of the Americas Watch. http://www.soaw.org/

Zarate-Laun, Cecilia, “Paramilitarism and the Limits of Democracy in Columbia.”

Columbian Human Rights Lecture, Dept. of Latin American Studies. Kalamazoo

College, 17 Oct. 2007.

Buying Dinner at Late Night Taco Stands

Buying Dinner at Late Night Taco Stands

and other information your study abroad handbook won’t tell you about Oaxaca, Mexico

Study abroad can be a time of incredible personal growth and development, only if the traveler is willing to push their personal boundaries and be open to uncertainty. Before I started to travel much, I always followed the travel advice like, ‘don’t stay out too late, don’t go anywhere alone, don’t drink the water, and don’t accept drinks from strangers.’ I used to listen to all this advice, until I realized my travels lacked cultural engagement due to the boundaries these restrictions created. If one travels in fear, they may as well stay at home. I won’t deny that I have never been ripped off, had money stolen, or been harassed by police abroad, I don’t have a euphoric idea of travel. However, culturally engaged travel requires an adventurous nature and willingness to destroy preconceived notions. One must use their best judgment while abroad, but I have never been permanently injured by expanding my mind. The culturally informed student traveler seeks challenging experiences to broaden their horizons.

I had the chance to develop my own cultural intelligence in Oaxaca, México. I attended language classes at the Facultad de Idiomas and participated in a volunteer teaching program through the Instituto Welte. The classes and language emersion helped me improve my Spanish skills; while teaching in the small town of San José del Mogote helped me understand the effects of emigration and globalization within rural communities. Living with my incredibly supportive host family helped me fall in love with the Oaxaqueño lifestyle even more. During my time in Oaxaca, I was continually forced to question my own beliefs, and because this, became more centered and confident. I was able to slow down and think about important aspects of life. My time in Oaxaca also inspired a thirst for more travel experience. The only part I would have changed about my experience abroad is that I wish I could have stayed for two semesters instead of one.

Oaxaca is a vibrant and beautiful city full of opportunities for language and cultural emersion. Oaxaca is a living textbook of art, political engagement, history, architecture, indigenous cultures, archaeology, music, and culinary arts. For an engaged student of the global community, Oaxaca is the optimal choice for study abroad. There are spectacular attractions that everyone must see like the Zócalo, Monte Alban, and the Santo Domingo Cathedral. The clubs and nightlife are phenomenal. These aspects of the Oaxaca need no further embellishment, as they become ingrained in one’s consciousness just by visiting this colonial city. However, to really understand the spirit of Oaxaca, students must let go of their tourist roots to experience everything the life in Oaxaca has to offer.

The markets of Oaxaca are a great way to understand the workings of the city, and they are sprinkled about the center of town and throughout the neighborhoods. Mountains of fresh fruits and vegetables cascade in front of venders, bar stools adorn fresh juice stands, quesillo (cheese), tortillas, salted chapulines (roasted grasshoppers), and beautiful handicrafts abound. The markets in Oaxaca facilitate conversation, stimulate the local economy, and give great insight into the lifestyle there. Going to the market with my host mom helped me participate in family activities while learning about the origin of the food I was eating.

In addition to raw goods, many of the markets have venders with prepared foods. These venders and other small business have some of the best food in the city. I think for American students, one of the hardest preconceptions to overcome while abroad is their fear of the supposed “germs” in the water, food, and etcetera. One of my favorite culinary delights of Oaxaca is the late night tacos stands that set up for dinner and beyond. One can find these stands and small restaurants all over the city. Simply ask for three or four tacos of carne de pastor (spiced pork) or pollo (chicken) with onions, cilantro, and a spicy or mild salsa to accompany a fresh corn tortilla, and enjoy. These small businesses are a great way to engage in conversation, and the food is always spectacular. Some travel sources may advise against eating “street food,” but I would strongly encourage any traveler to try some late night tacos and be enchanted by this small part of the Oaxaqueño life.

There are lots of interesting culturally significant interests within thirty minutes of the city as well. There is of course, the famous Monte Alban, the ancient Zapotec city built atop a mountain. Monte Alban is a must see, but there are lots of other smaller, less traveled archeological sites close to the city. One such site is Mitla. The grandiosity of Monte Alban pales in comparison to the detailed stone artwork at Mitla. Another small Zapotec agrological site is Yagul. I was fortunate enough to experience Yagul when no other visitors were there, and its desolate nature captured my heart and imagination. One only has to climb the mountain path next to the site to take advantage of a truly awe inspiring view of the ruins and the desert landscape.

Any of the small towns outside of the city are also points of interest for the culturally engaged traveler. The fiestas patrias (patron saint’s festivals) of the small communities, if respectfully observed, capture interesting aspects of the religion and culture. Accompanied by live music and fireworks, Calendas (processions) including town officials and ornately adorned dancers fill the streets. Some comminutes throw carnival style festivals or have jaripeos (rodeos). I was fortunate enough to work with municipal organizers and participate in some of these celebrations through the Instituto Welte. Teaching in the community of San José del Mogote and participation in community activities offered a different perspective of Mexican cultural than the city. In addition, the small towns exemplify the sentiments of a community and agro-based lifestyle, which is increasingly threatened by a global market.

Students seeking the opportunity to develop their cultural competency need look no farther than Oaxaca. There is liberation in letting down ones guard and simply living in another culture and Oaxaca is the perfect place for students to find that personal liberation and growth.

Following a Graffiti Trail

Following a Graffiti Trail:

How social awareness takes root and flourishes among young adults around the world

Oaxaca is a beautiful colonial city near the pacific coast in the southern region of México. Downtown the narrow cobble stone streets are lined with colorfully painted stucco buildings. In the zócalo (town square), seasonally complete with poinsettias and a nativity scene, Oaxaqueños and tourists enjoy coffee at the cafes, listen to live music, soak up the sunshine, and visit. Late day throughout the city, families gather to share a meal, relax, and then return to work. After it gets dark, young adults wander the streets between bars and clubs, drinking and socializing. It’s the holiday season in the city, people are on vacation, students are home from university, and families are united. This quintessential scene is much different than several months earlier, when the social unrest in the city reached a summit.

In 2006 and 2007, there was a period of significant civil and political unrest in Oaxaca based on a conflict that began with a teacher’s strike and gradually escalated to an entire social movement with the APPO (popular assembly of the peoples of Oaxaca) leading the way. The city was physically marked by the movement and the events which followed. Streets were barricaded, fires were set, windows in the zócalo were boarded up, city services ceased, and walls were covered with graffiti declaring the unity of el pueblo (the people). What began as peaceful protest had quickly escaladed to violence with the onset of increased police presence in the city.

My study abroad was just coming to an end during the start of the APPO movement in 2006. This past December, almost two years later, I had the opportunity to return to Oaxaca. Since the end of the conflict, windows have been replaced, businesses re-opened, tourists returned, the city seems generally restored to its infamous tranquil state. In the tourist center of town, all of the graffiti has been painted over, covering most of the walls with blotchy white blobs. However, there are still some residual reminders of the movement. Once you leave downtown area, much the graffiti is still painted on the walls and serves as a reminder of the movement to all who live there and to travelers who venture out of the zócalo.

I was captivated by the graffiti during my last visit; not only does it capture the history of a community organized for social change, but the stenciled wall graffiti is truly beautiful artwork. Stencils of political and revolutionary figures like Benito Juarez, portraits representing el pueblo, traditional dancers bearing rifles, and slogans urging the federal police to leave the city, still litter the walls. In the tiangues (day markets), one can see young adults vending and buying the stencils, a reminder that the social movement has not come to a complete stop.

The attitude towards social activism for young adults in Oaxaca is different than the attitude I have experienced in the mid-west United States. In university, I have always heard people explain their social awareness through an affiliation with an association, club, or student group; something that fits nicely on a resume. We study globalization and world politics in classes, forums, and in the news, but this academic approach to learning world politics implies a certain detachment from the reality of the situation. In Oaxaca, the social awareness takes root in a more daily vernacular, and at times grows with the use of a stencil and spray paint. The social issues discussed amongst friends are not about the next benefit dinner or concert, but center around social conditions that affect their daily lives. People living in Oaxaca during the APPO movement have a level of emotional engagement and direct affiliation with the social and political identity of being a young person in Oaxaca today.

One night after watching a fútbol game, I joined a conversation that captured this engaged and active approach to social issues. I was able to participate in the conversation about some current events, but I felt somehow cheated not only by the fact that I am an outsider, but also by the fact that I can only express my relationship to these issues in an academic and analytical manner. This group of young people discussed topics related the Oaxaca’s social and political conditions. The conversation touched on increased traffic problems in the city and sharing ideas about how drivers should pass one by one at the intersections. Ideas about the cost of housing and the influx of tourists were also discussed. Many opinions were expressed and engaged discussion of the issues followed. Theses topics may have surface qualities of small talk, but actually reveal ideas of fairness, equality, national identity, and no-so-subtly cite the negative aspects of increased consumerism and globalization in the region. That night, I realized involvement in social issues is not restricted by the academic bubble for these young adults. Observing a group of young people concerned about the politics in their city gives me hope for my generation and proof that there are people who form worldwide idea sharing communities.

Before leaving I tried to photograph as many the graffiti images as possible; fearing the next time I returned they would be white patches of paint like the others. The graffiti captures the sentiment of direct social engagement and awareness and also represents a generation of politically aware citizens. The graffiti, conversations with new and old friends, and the magic of the city made the trip memorable. Most importantly, my second trip to Oaxaca increased my desire to break out of the academic realm and experience more direct encounters with politics in my own community and abroad.

-End-

Intent

With this blog, I wish to promote discussion on culturally informed travel and international social issues.

The posted articles are mostly reflections from my study abroad in Oaxaca, Mexico, my time working in the Amazon region in Peru, and other travels in Latin America.

As globalization continues to alter the cultural and economic map of the planet, we as travelers have a responsibility in the world community to promote cross-cultural understanding, respect, appreciation, and acceptance.